Those pesky little 'white bumps'... AKA: milia

Q: What ARE those little white bumps, anyway?!? A: Milia.

Today I had a 15-year-old boy come in for a facial who was seeking help with his oily, congested skin. His primary concern was the 'white bumps' on the upper part of his cheeks, which I immediately recognized as milia. Milia are keratin-filled cysts that can appear just under the top surface layers of the skin (the epidermis). Dead skin that does not slough off becomes trapped in the hair follicles or sweat glands and compresses, which creates hard, pearly little white or yellow bumps. Milia are noncancerous, affect people of all races, genders and ages, and can often be confused with persistent whiteheads (which they are not). Profuse sweating, frequently touching and/or not regularly washing the face, dirty pillowcases, using heavy creams or hair products and improper home care can all contribute to the formation of milia (and other breakouts).

The treatment of milia is done in the following ways:

1. Having a licensed clinical esthetician in a doctor or dermatologist's office use a medical lancet, a small needle, to very gently prick the follicle open and release the impaction (I am professionally trained in this, but lancets legally can only be used in a medical office in the state of Florida and I work in a lovely spa).

2. Through ongoing, deep-pore cleansing facial treatments. The use of fruit-acid peels and microdermabraision are especially effective in removing the dead skin cells and opening the clogged pores to release the milia so they can clear.

3. The proper use of quality home care products- particularly a good cleanser and gentle exfoliant. Also, if milia (and other congestion) is a problem, it is wise to change pillowcases every single day to prevent bacteria and dead cell buildup from continuing to clog pores overnight. Cleanse after heavy perspiration, have your esthetician check out the ingredients of your cosmetics, lotions and hair products, and keep hands off the face as much as possible!

The combination of regular facials and proper home care will begin breaking the milia down and also bring them closer to the surface for removal. Trying to remove them prematurely with an extractor tool or with finger pressure only damages the skin, potentially leading to permanent scars while not even getting the impaction out! (Note: This is why it is so important to let your esthetician do your extractions! You should never try and extract a milia yourself.) I explained all of this to my client so he would understand why he would still see some of those stubborn 'white bumps' after our first treatment/s. If he could commit to coming back for regular facials and doing his part at home, he could start seeing them begin to clear within just a few weeks. The key is consistency in proper treatment. Even after the milia clear he will need to stay on his at home regime and continue with regular treatments to prevent their return.

He left with glowing, already clearer skin that he was enthusiastic about and a proper home care regime and protocol in hand. His commitment to regular specialized treatments and proper home care made him an ideal client for visible improvement in his complexion. Just thinking about the tangible results he will see over the next few months (presuming he follows directions) is really exciting! I look forward to working with him -and his skin!- again soon.

Products used:
I started with the Dermalogica Medi-Bac Cleanser on him, which kills bacteria and removes excess oil and impurities. It contains balm mint and camphor, which cool and soothe aggravated skin. Next, I exfoliated with the Skin Prep Scrub, a granular scrub which removes buildup and polishes the skin. It has mallow, ivy and aloe to soothe and refreshing arnica and cucumber. After toning, applying a pre-extraction fluid and using hot steam to open his pores, I extracted as much debris as I could. The congestion cleared easily from his forehead, chin and nose, but I could get very little from the upper cheekbone area where the deep milia were. Like I said, those will take time, patience, consistent treatments and home care to clear.

I used High Frequency on him after the extractions. High frequency is an absolutely AMAZING device that kills the germs that cause breakouts, promotes skin healing, soothes redness and inflammation and works a whole host of other wonders. I will post a blog all about the benefits of using high frequency in the near future. :)

After the extractions, applying soothing post-extraction fluid and his relaxing facial massage, I applied the Dermalogica Plankton Masque. I LOVE this masque! The masque is clay based, which helps remove the dead cells and debris, calm the skin and absorb excess oil. It also contains high levels of marine plankton, other seaweeds, algae and minerals that deeply nourish the skin. Lastly it also contains grapefruit seed extract that works as both a cleanser and astringent. After his hand, arm and foot massage, I spot treated with a couple drops of the Medi-Bac Clearing Complex which has 2% salicylic acid to dry and clear excess oil, and tea tree extract to help heal and prevent blemishes. I used a modest amount of Active Moist, which is an oil-free, lightweight, amino-acid rich moisturizer containing lemon, burdock and ivy to refine and tone, lavender, mallow and cucumber to soothe and hydrate. Finally, I gave him a deep scalp massage to bring our session to an end.

To contact Diane or to set an appointment, email her at beautybydiane@ymail.com or call Body & Soul Retreat of Lighthouse Point at (954) 784-5505.