Those pesky little 'white bumps'... AKA: milia

Q: What ARE those little white bumps, anyway?!? A: Milia.

Today I had a 15-year-old boy come in for a facial who was seeking help with his oily, congested skin. His primary concern was the 'white bumps' on the upper part of his cheeks, which I immediately recognized as milia. Milia are keratin-filled cysts that can appear just under the top surface layers of the skin (the epidermis). Dead skin that does not slough off becomes trapped in the hair follicles or sweat glands and compresses, which creates hard, pearly little white or yellow bumps. Milia are noncancerous, affect people of all races, genders and ages, and can often be confused with persistent whiteheads (which they are not). Profuse sweating, frequently touching and/or not regularly washing the face, dirty pillowcases, using heavy creams or hair products and improper home care can all contribute to the formation of milia (and other breakouts).

The treatment of milia is done in the following ways:

1. Having a licensed clinical esthetician in a doctor or dermatologist's office use a medical lancet, a small needle, to very gently prick the follicle open and release the impaction (I am professionally trained in this, but lancets legally can only be used in a medical office in the state of Florida and I work in a lovely spa).

2. Through ongoing, deep-pore cleansing facial treatments. The use of fruit-acid peels and microdermabraision are especially effective in removing the dead skin cells and opening the clogged pores to release the milia so they can clear.

3. The proper use of quality home care products- particularly a good cleanser and gentle exfoliant. Also, if milia (and other congestion) is a problem, it is wise to change pillowcases every single day to prevent bacteria and dead cell buildup from continuing to clog pores overnight. Cleanse after heavy perspiration, have your esthetician check out the ingredients of your cosmetics, lotions and hair products, and keep hands off the face as much as possible!

The combination of regular facials and proper home care will begin breaking the milia down and also bring them closer to the surface for removal. Trying to remove them prematurely with an extractor tool or with finger pressure only damages the skin, potentially leading to permanent scars while not even getting the impaction out! (Note: This is why it is so important to let your esthetician do your extractions! You should never try and extract a milia yourself.) I explained all of this to my client so he would understand why he would still see some of those stubborn 'white bumps' after our first treatment/s. If he could commit to coming back for regular facials and doing his part at home, he could start seeing them begin to clear within just a few weeks. The key is consistency in proper treatment. Even after the milia clear he will need to stay on his at home regime and continue with regular treatments to prevent their return.

He left with glowing, already clearer skin that he was enthusiastic about and a proper home care regime and protocol in hand. His commitment to regular specialized treatments and proper home care made him an ideal client for visible improvement in his complexion. Just thinking about the tangible results he will see over the next few months (presuming he follows directions) is really exciting! I look forward to working with him -and his skin!- again soon.

Products used:
I started with the Dermalogica Medi-Bac Cleanser on him, which kills bacteria and removes excess oil and impurities. It contains balm mint and camphor, which cool and soothe aggravated skin. Next, I exfoliated with the Skin Prep Scrub, a granular scrub which removes buildup and polishes the skin. It has mallow, ivy and aloe to soothe and refreshing arnica and cucumber. After toning, applying a pre-extraction fluid and using hot steam to open his pores, I extracted as much debris as I could. The congestion cleared easily from his forehead, chin and nose, but I could get very little from the upper cheekbone area where the deep milia were. Like I said, those will take time, patience, consistent treatments and home care to clear.

I used High Frequency on him after the extractions. High frequency is an absolutely AMAZING device that kills the germs that cause breakouts, promotes skin healing, soothes redness and inflammation and works a whole host of other wonders. I will post a blog all about the benefits of using high frequency in the near future. :)

After the extractions, applying soothing post-extraction fluid and his relaxing facial massage, I applied the Dermalogica Plankton Masque. I LOVE this masque! The masque is clay based, which helps remove the dead cells and debris, calm the skin and absorb excess oil. It also contains high levels of marine plankton, other seaweeds, algae and minerals that deeply nourish the skin. Lastly it also contains grapefruit seed extract that works as both a cleanser and astringent. After his hand, arm and foot massage, I spot treated with a couple drops of the Medi-Bac Clearing Complex which has 2% salicylic acid to dry and clear excess oil, and tea tree extract to help heal and prevent blemishes. I used a modest amount of Active Moist, which is an oil-free, lightweight, amino-acid rich moisturizer containing lemon, burdock and ivy to refine and tone, lavender, mallow and cucumber to soothe and hydrate. Finally, I gave him a deep scalp massage to bring our session to an end.

To contact Diane or to set an appointment, email her at beautybydiane@ymail.com or call Body & Soul Retreat of Lighthouse Point at (954) 784-5505.

I LOVE what I do!

Now I am actively working in the field of my dreams, I am happier than ever to be doing what I do. There is no career choice I would have rather chosen! Nothing feels as wonderful as truly helping someone feel better about themselves, their skin and their beauty- both inside and out.

Last week a lifelong, dear friend of mine back home in Seattle contacted me in skin distress. Her face was extremely dry, chaffing and breaking out in 'mini-rashes', and it seemed nothing was helping. She told me she was exfoliating with salicylic, which she thought would help but only created more little chapped patches. I suggested several things to her: breaking open a vitamin E capsule or two, or getting pure liquid vitamin E and mixing a tiny bit with her moisturizer before applying. Also taking vitamin E supplements and fish oil to help overall skin tone and moisture. Aloe, lavender, comfrey and calendula (marigold) are herbal soothing remedies. A tiny dab of Bag Balm, Vaseline or Neosporin at night will help heal and soothe the chapped spots (just be sure and lay an old towel or cloth over the pillow to protect the case). Lastly I suggested seeing the dermatologist for an over-the-counter cream (and to rule out any major skin conditions).

At my spa we use Dermalogica products, so I was able to recommend a few based on her concerns. They make a great dry skin face moisturizer called 'Super Rich Repair' and it is specifically designed for chronic and severely dry skin. It also protects/shields from environmental distress such as extreme cold and wind. The Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Masque is also very good for rehydrating. I told her she DEFINITELY wanted to focus on products for severely dry and sensitive skin that boast words like 'ultra replenishing/ hydrating/ calming/ soothing/ gentle' etc, and that the salicylic exfoliation is one of the WORST things one can do to dry skin! It will surely only make the symptoms worse, drying and aggravating the skin even more. Salicylic is for clearing acne and -drying! - excess oil. The best kind of peel/ exfoliant for really dry skin is lactic acid, because it has a hydrating milk base. I would recommend a light lactic acid peel, and then a good facial massage with a hydrating serum, followed by a soothing, ultra-moisturizing mask such as the Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Masque- all done by a local loving, qualified esthetician. Regular hydrating facial treatments would really help clear and combat the chaffing dryness, and a good esthetician would put her on a proper homecare regime to ensure ongoing, visible results and optimum skin health.

I got a message from her less than a week later saying: "I didn't even think about exfoliator. That Dermalogica stuff you were recommending is INCREDIBLE. It basically cured me over night. Thank you, thank you for your advice on this stuff!"

I couldn't have felt more satisfied and fulfilled to have really been able to HELP with her skin condition and concerns. Because of my suggestions she got off the drying salicylic that was only making her symptoms worse, and was able to help her get on some really effective products to help treat the painful chaffing. It lifts me up from the deepest place in my heart to know I made a difference!

Then, the other day I gave the PERFECT Sedona Mist facial to a client of mine. As I gave her hand, arm, foot, and facial massages I felt a radiant kind of love for this woman. Not in a romantic way, mind you, but in a very... Human to Human way. I believe we all need Connection to truly thrive in this abrasive world, and what I do offers me the opportunity to share my loving energy, kindness and warmth from myself, my heart, directly to another's. As I quietly work on my client, with candles burning and relaxing music around us, I actively think about transferring blessings and well-wishes of inner peace, joy and harmony into the deepest part of each and every one. I wish for them love, happiness, and that their burdens -whatever they may be- be lifted. I always hope that this is transferred, this powerful energy between two people. I hope that my client leaves feeling cared for, and, in that Human to Human kind of way, loved.

These are two examples of what give my career, and my life, meaning. This is what I love and strive to do- restore and rejuvenate beauty, both inside and out.

Warmth and Harmony,
Diane

To contact Diane or to set an appointment, email her at beautybydiane@ymail.com or call Body & Soul Retreat of Lighthouse Point at (954) 784-5505.